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There is no magic method or formula to this, I dont follow a specific ratio, I just kind of play around until I get a nice consistency

Clothes shown with my blue jeans: B&Tailor bespoke overcoat in Fox cloth PS watch cap in navy Rubato navy lambswool crewneck Vintage Levis 501s Rubato black alligator belt Vintage Ralph Lauren crocodile loafers Clothes shown with my black jeans: PS English Tweed coat PS white undershirt Rubato Earth lambswool crewneck Rubato black alligator belt Brycelands 933 black jeans Edward Green Galway boots in calf and grain leather Medium