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From its appearance at the turn of the 20th century and later revival by Balenciaga couture, through to Courtney Love's kinderwhore styling and Meadham Kirchhoff's homage to her, it has designated everything from the formal to the salacious, the irreverent to the chic

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Subscribe to Observers Lifestyle Newsletter 1965, Wedding to John Barry At age 18, Birkin married British composer John Barry at the Chelsea Registry Office in London